Allscan v1.1 ANH85-M-RT85 & URI-101 USB radio interface review

I was looking for another Digirig a few months back. I’ve had one for a few years and was looking to add another one to put in my bug out kit. While scrolling through Ebay, something else caught my eye: Allscan URI-101. Little did I know just what would come from this random dopamine-seeking shopping trip.

From what I can determine on the Allscan website, the two devices at the core are functionally the same so I’m going to spend most of this review on the ANH85-M-RT85. I’m using both devices and functionality and configuration is the same. Both devices allow an RF device (radio) to interface with a PC or Raspberry Pi via USB. They can be used for a variety of applications. I’ve used both of mine for Allstar (HamVoIP and ASL3), Echolink, and APRS (using the DigiPi image from KM6LYW) attached to either a RPi 3b or a Wyse 7010 thin client running Debian Bookworm.

The URI-101 has a nice anodized metal case, LEDs, and no integrated radio. The URI in the configuration purchased is designed to use radios with K1 connectors (Baofeng, Retevis, etc.) though other interface options are available to accommodate a variety of popular radios. It does ship with the required connectivity cables for both the radio and USB to your computing device. Both the K1 and USB cables are good quality with significant torrids attached. Power to whatever radio you attach is separate from the device and up to the operator. I currently have a Baofeng UV5RH Pro attached to the URI, though I have had a variety of other CCRs connected to it. The only radio I had issues with functionality is the TiDRadio H3 Plus, which had erratic operation – specifically not releasing the PPT when it should – that I’ve determined is not the fault of the Allscan unit. The blame sits squarely on the TiD, which has been problematic across the spectrum form Day One. Fortunately, it has finally left this mortal plane. My only regret is letting it die a natural death instead of doing an Office Space-esque baseball bat party to it.

The ANH85-M-RT85 – probably not surprisingly – has an Retevis RT-85 integrated with the Allscan device. The ANH is available with a similar metal case as the URI, I chose not to purchase that model as I use this device static in my home. The RT-85 is solidly attached to the PCB with standoffs and a stout zip tie. I do not think the zip tie detracts from the device visually or functionally. The RT-85 receives its power from the board, no battery or separate DC input required.

If you are going to purchase one of these devices, I strongly recommend (and so does David of Allscan) you do so from the Allscan website and not the Ebay store. Because of the fees imposed by Ebay, the units cost more there. More important, you will miss out on the excellent communication from David. This communication is the difference between spending your time hunting for answers when the device arrives vs being up and running quickly. The direct method does involve sending an email to place your order. While initially this might sound inconvenient, bear with me while I explain why it isn’t. I decided to order the second device direct on a Saturday morning over a cup of caffeine (and what my wife calls “Breakfast Rice,” eggs, leftover Jasmine rice, avocado, diced cherry tomatoes, chili crisp, crumbled bacon, and a slice of sourdough toast, don’t knock it until you try it). After looking over the options which include several turnkey Wyse\Allscan, R Pi\Allscan configurations, and a nifty radio-less network setup, I priced out an RT-85 separately from Revetis and determined I could get the integrated system from Allscan for a few dollars more than the retail of just the radio. I sent an email off around 10:30AM stating my desire to purchase the ANH85-M. A few hours later I got my reply. On a Saturday. He (David) told me he had several different options in stock, ready to ship, with clear descriptions on the differences and costs (including shipping). I made my choice and sent off payment via PayPal. Within the hour I had a shipping confirmation with tracking as well as a very complete instructions on setting it up, usage, and the wonderfully surprising news that the radio would already be setup for the optimal configuration when it arrives.
That was 100% accurate. Not only was the frequency and offset for both VHF and UHF set, the recommended volume setting was clearly marked and set. This tells me the devices are tested before they are shipped out. The unit arrived in a few days and well packaged. When I opened up the box, I was struck with something that rarely happens when I get a new radio doodad: it was somehow aesthetically attractive. The PCB has clear, sharp stenciling with clear indication of what everything is that is important. The standoffs bright and shiny, the cables routed neatly. This oozes pride, passion, and craftsmanship.

HamVoIP, Debian 12, 13 (Wyse\PC install), and the DigiPi image (also based off Debian 13) correctly identifies the device as a C-Media Electronics Inc. USB Audio Device full speed. ASL3 didn’t pick it up initially, but that is on ASL3, not Allscan, this is a common occurrence with ASL3 and USB devices from what I’ve read. A quick trip over to the forums will confirm this. If you are using this device with an Allstar node, make sure you follow the instructions here on the Allscan site for proper configuration. Additionally, the volume on the radio attached is critical. Make sure that if you get an integrated device that you confirm you haven’t bumped the knob during setup (I put a small dab of hot glue on mine after I had confirmed functionality). About 20% volume seems to be the sweet spot for most of my radios outside of the H3, which had a non-linear control, 20% volume in reality was about 45% of the travel of the knob. With the AHN-85, it was perfect out-of-the-box. I initially tested it on HamVoIP that was already working perfectly with the URI-101 without a hitch. I moved it over to one of my Wyse devices, did a clean install of the ASL appliance, and after making the rpt.conf and simpleusb.conf modifications outlined on the Allscan page, it too was working fine. I would also recommend installing the Allscan Allstar application to get the most of of your ASL node.

If I was to pick a nit, it would be on the supplied cable length. They work great if you are going to physically attach the Allstar device to your R Pi\Wyse and the radio (non-integrated Allscans) to keep things neat, tidy, and minimize interference on the USB cable. Not so much for situations where you want to have the radio not attached so you can easily swap radios around as well as makes it difficult to see the LEDs and the radio display at the same time from certain angles. At worst, this is a minor inconvenience that theoretically if you purchased proper shielded longer cables could be resolved, though you might run the risk of interference.

In closing, the two Allscan devices are the best purchases I’ve made in the hobby that are not stand-alone radios. If they fit in your budget, they eliminate the maddening work of interfacing a radio to Allstar and Echolink, with the added bonus of working very well with other modes like APRS, Winlink, AX.25, etc. David also runs a Facebook group to support his products.

Scott – KC1MUR

 F8HP PRO – Surprisingly good, pleasantly affordable

I picked up the BTech F8HP PRO a while back after deciding it was time to upgrade my old UV5R, and I have to say — this thing has genuinely impressed me in ways I didn’t expect from a radio at this price point.

01 //Build Quality

Right out of the box, the first thing I noticed was how solid it feels. This is not a cheap, hollow chunk of plastic. At 9.2 oz with the battery on, it has some real heft to it. The dimensions are comfortable in the hand without being bulky, and everything about the construction feels deliberate. My previous BTech was noticeably flimsier, so this is a real step up.

02 //The Triple-Band Thing is Actually Useful

I’ll be honest — I was skeptical about 220 MHz (1.25m) being worth anything in my area. Turns out there’s more activity on that band than I expected, and unlike some radios that technically cover 220 but with garbage performance, the F8HP PRO delivers real power there. My audio reports on local repeaters and simplex have been consistently clean.

Power levels measured using a calibrated Bird Termaline wattmeter.

03 //The Aircraft Band is a Genuine Bonus

I live near a busy corridor with a couple of major airports and a handful of smaller fields nearby. The AM aircraft receive on this radio is genuinely clear and impressive. Ground-to-air, air-to-air, UNICOM traffic — it all comes through crisp. This alone gives the radio a lot of extra entertainment value during slow moments on the ham bands.

04 //Channel Banks / Zone System

This is one of the features that doesn’t get enough attention. Having 1000 channels split into 10 zones of 100 each is a game changer for organization. I have one zone for local ham repeaters, one for simplex, one dialed in for aircraft frequencies, and one set up for travel. The fact that the zone name appears on the display rather than just a number makes switching between them fast and intuitive. You can also have different zones on the A and B display simultaneously, which is a nice touch.

05 //NOAA One-Button Access

Simple, fast, no menus. Long press zero and you’re on weather channels. Long press the pound key and it scans all ten. Short press to jump back to normal operation. In severe weather country, this kind of no-fuss access matters.

06 //GPS

The GPS works well — I verified coordinates against my phone and they matched up accurately. For solo hiking or working with a group, the location sharing between F8HP PRO units is a legitimately useful feature, not just a spec sheet bullet point.

07 //USB-C Charging

Finally. No more proprietary charger hunting. The 2500 mAh battery charges from any standard USB-C source, and the charge indicator on the battery itself (red while charging, green when full) is a small but appreciated touch. Just keep in mind it’s charge-in only — you can’t use it as a power bank for other devices.

08 //Firmware V0.53 — This Is How Updates Should Work

V0.53Released January 2026

Smarter Scanning, Better Display

• On-screen signal strength in approx. dBm
• Channel Name + Frequency display option
• Safer keypad channel delete w/ name shown
• Scan Edit + fixed no-tone nuisance stops
• Side keys: 4 programmable actions
• Improved airband stepping indicators
• Updated airband band edges
• Much more throughout

One of my selling points on this radio was the upgradable firmware, and BTech has delivered on that promise in a meaningful way. The V0.53 update is the kind of release that makes you appreciate the hardware all over again. The most immediately noticeable addition is the on-screen signal strength readout in approximate dBm — genuinely useful information right on the display rather than just a vague S-meter bar. Scanning got smarter too, with a new Scan Edit feature and a fix for those annoying nuisance stops on channels with no tone. The side keys now support four programmable actions instead of two, which opens up a lot of flexibility for how you work the radio in the field. Airband users will appreciate the proper stepping indicators and updated band edges. Toss in the new Channel Name + Frequency display option and a safer keypad channel delete that shows the actual channel name before you pull the trigger, and this update touches nearly every part of the radio’s daily operation. It’s the kind of firmware drop that feels less like a patch and more like a free hardware upgrade.

09 //Pros & Cons

Pros

• Solid, hefty build quality
• Real power on all three bands
• 220 MHz fully functional
• AM aircraft receive (108–136 MHz)
• 1000 channels / 10 named zones
• USB-C charging on battery
• GPS with team location sharing
• Upgradable firmware (V0.53 is great)
• NOAA one-button access
• CHIRP + custom software support

Minor Gripes

• Long-press functions need memorizing
• Manual is dense — read it first
• Flashlight removed for GPS antenna
• Use FTDI cable for programming
• USB-C is charge-in only, not power bank

The F8HP PRO hits a sweet spot that’s hard to find: solid construction, three fully functional amateur bands, aircraft receive, intelligent channel organization, GPS, and modern USB-C charging all in one package. The upgradable firmware means it can actually improve after purchase — and with updates like V0.53 already out, BTech is clearly backing that promise up. For the price, it’s one of the most capable handhelds I’ve owned. Highly recommended for anyone who wants more than just a basic dual-bander.

Ready to pick one up?

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Todd – KE9DQS

#hamradio, #amateurradio, #baofeng, #affordable, #triband

kv4p HT Android – Turn your ‘droid into a radio. Wut?

So I’m doomscrolling one night and I come across this thing: the kv4p Analog Radio for Android. My first thought when seeing the listing was that this was another PlayStore app that would promise to let you use your phone as a radio, then require you to purchase a subscription so you could, oh I don’t know, USE YOUR PHONE AS A RADIO? I was wrong. Very wrong. And I’m glad I was wrong. Before you start thinking that turning a phone into a radio is dumb, read on and hear me out. This is a nice piece of kit that for me has some very practical uses.

Let’s get what it actually is out of the way first. Quoting the brainchild behind it, the HT Android: “kv4p HT is a homebrew 1 watt radio available in VHF or UHF that plugs into your Android phone’s USB-C port, transforming it into a fully-featured handheld transceiver. Completely off-grid. Completely open source.” If you want to build your own, head on over to the webpage. Everything you need to know and buy is right there. I didn’t build mine, I bought it already built. Yeh, I know that is cheating. I don’t care. It was $36, I’ve spent more than that getting fast food for dinner that tasted like crap, so if this is crap, I’m on a roll. It is a custom ESP-based PCB with a stubby standard SMA antenna, a 3D printed case, one of those 3M 2-sided adhesive pads, and a USB-C to USB mini cable with a USB mini to USB-C adapter. Decent cable, too. The unit I got is labeled and shipped as VHF, though from what I’ve read in a few places, it is possible to do UHF with a firmware flash. I have not attempted this, UHF coverage in my area lags significantly behind 2m. Oh, and it came with an instruction page, but it only covers updating firmware, which it says right at the top it shouldn’t need to be done. Wishful thinking. It needs to be done. This is for ‘droid only, there’s no iOS version nor plans for one because of Apple’s restrictions and stupidly expensive fees around USB connections. That being said, I see this as ripe for someone to fork to a BLE configuration and ditch the cable. At just shy of 0.5″ thick, it isn’t inconvenient to tuck into the pocket with the exception of having the cable on there. Doable, though bluetooth would make this better. I have it paired with a Samsung A20 and there’s plenty of real estate to put it how you want it in regards to antenna exposure. I did not use the supplied 3M (red label or “needs an act of God or jackhammer to remove” tape) and used their reusable tape instead since I want to sometimes use this with my tablet for the bigger screen.

If you buy it like I did, there’s no assembly required, unless you consider screwing the antenna on and plugging in a USB cable assembly. You need to download the HT Android by kv6p from the PlayStore. Plug the cable into the HT and phone, start the app, and look to see if there’s a big red box at the bottom telling you that it can’t find the device. If you see that, don’t freak out, just reverse the cable and it should work. The end with the adapter (if yours is like that) connects to the kv4p. Yeh, the cable is directional. The app is simple, but not plain. I think it is attractive in a minimalist sort of way. It is very intuitive, one of the rare cases where you can open it up for the first time and start using it immediately.
Don’t.
Go up to the hamburger menu and do a firmware update. Those instructions I mentioned earlier? They talk about using a PC for FW updates, no mention of doing them in the app, but you can. They also said that it didn’t need an update, but it does or else it gets really erratic on if it wants to accept anything close to 144.00000 as a valid frequency. Update and problem is solved. Go into the settings and set up your callsign. This isn’t required for basic operation, but this little puppy does APRS beaconing and messaging, so if that is your jam, put in your callsign and suffix. There’s other settings that you would expect to find in an actual radio as far as roger beep, preamble, tail elimination, etc. You can set your lower\upper frequency limits for the band. The 70cm bands are in there so this backs up what I read about it supporting 440 if you flash it for 440. Exit out and you are ready to go on simplex. It will autolaunch the app moving foward when you plug the radio into the phone. Nice.

I say “on simplex” because there’s no way to input offset or CTCSS directly. You can change the frequency but it is only simplex operation. If you want to use it on repeaters, you can, just not by direct input. Tap the ALL MEMORIES and it brings up RepeatBook. You have to sign in with your RB account. Some people in reviews and comments have gotten butthurt over this. I’m not sure why, as you need a RP account to do any advanced exports. Anyway, punch in your creds and it automagically pulls in all your local repeaters based off your phone’s GPS coordinates. Slicker than using CHIRP.

Instantly I was receiving traffic on 146.98500. a repeater about 30 miles away as the crow flies (about 45 miles by car, this is New England, direct routes are not allowed). I can only occasionally open that one up with a 5w HT so I didn’t bother with this 1w unit. I was able to open one about 23 miles closer, though no one was on it so I didn’t get a response. I did hear myself on my UV-25 Pro that I had next to me. It was a bit faint but clear enough to understand. Not too shabby. I connected my K5 Plus to my Surecom SR-112 Simplex Repeater in parrot mode, left it on the floor in my spare room\shack, slipped the phone\kv6p into the pocket of my sweats, tossed on my boots and parka, and trekked out into New Hampshire’s balmy March weather. Across the street from us is a small access road to one of the local recreational ponds. The shore of the pond is about 0.15 miles from the house and -60′ or so elevation, from there I got a clear response from the repeater. Back to the house, grabbed Fiona the Frenchy, and we went for a walk up the road. She hates her coat, btw.

This would be a good test of this little unit. While we only went about 3/4 of a mile up the road, we were on the other side of a large hill at our destination. I could still send and get a response from the Surecom. It wasn’t great, but readable. Considering this is basically doing FM QRP with an antenna the size of my thumb, in rural, heavily forested NH, I’m not disappointed. As a bonus, about a mile radius around our house is a cell dead spot now that they killed 2/3G so if I dropped my iPhone with its satellite capabilities and broke it, I could still get a message to the wife – who has less than zero desire to listen or use a radio – in a pinch. How? I’m so glad you asked! APRS. This has not only beaconing, but native APRS messaging. Using APRS-SMS, boom, I can text her. And it does work at this distance. I have an iGate\digipeater setup in the same room as that simplex repeater is sitting. I use it for coverage around the pond mentioned above. Not only when I got back and checked APRS.fi did I see my tracks, I was able to send and receive messages while away. If I was to say there is a feature missing, that would be map integration. I haven’t tried to see if this would work with APRSDriod but that is on my list of things to do. Unfortunately, my to-do list is rather lengthy.

I went into this purchase thinking this was a novelty, a toy, something to look at and say “that’s a cool concept” and accept reality that the execution falls short.
I was wrong.
This works as promised. It ticked above my expectations, that rarely happens. I see many uses for this that at the price point makes it a solid purchase for me. I can bring it with me when I don’t feel like strapping a radio on me or carrying one is a bit to conspicuous. I can use this walking the Potato and keep my hands more free in case of coyotes (that isn’t hyperbole, they have been quite active and brave this spring. Brave enough to come into the yard, Fiona is all of 17lbs, that’s snack sized to Wiley). I do walk her strapped as well as bear spray and a lovely telescoping baton, not having to think about navigating around a radio and antenna in a pinch drops a little stress. That’s not a stray German Shepard in my backyard.

I’ve found it quite useful for some testing inside the house. No fear of overpowering the other radio’s front end with this thing. At an outing or urban setting, this could be convenient. The one drawback is it does cut the phone battery life by a bit. In my case about 35% but the Samsung is old, isn’t a great phone anyway, and struggles just unlocking the screen on a good day so I cannot really say what you might experience. I’m an iPhone user for daily carry. Probably best to keep outings short when using this with APRS beaconing or frequent TX. That, or just make sure you have a way to charge your phone with you. You can build one yourself or purchase one from Alliexpress, Walmart, Bangood, or Amazon.

Scott – KC1MUR

Is this the new entry level CCR?

The Beofeng UV-5R is probably the most common entry point into Ham Radio. But maybe your first radio should be the new UV-7B instead. Here’s some practical thoughts –

Recently Amazon had it discounted, from the Beofang store, for a measly $27.19. The UV-5R is $16.07 – about ten bucks less. But neither is going to break the bank, so why is the -7B a better deal? Primarily a third band for just a few dollars more than the -5R.The little UV-5R gives you 136–174 MHz and 400–520 MHz, but the newer and a heftier UV-7B adds 220-260 MHz – and a color screen! Sure, most inexpensive handhelds are able to receive airband and NOAA weather, but a tribander in the sub $30 range is a great deal.

But what about the big 10 watt UV-32 with GPS that’s still in the basement price range? Well, it is just that – big. Some say it’s too big to easily haul around in your pocket. I have one and yes, it is a bit of a pain to carry around. Beofeng has a lot of radios to sell you. Many others, like the UV-5RM Plus GPS add, well you guessed it GPS, and can still be purchased for around $35. GPS on an HT is mostly for people using APRS.

In addition to the frequency coverage, the specs on the UV-7B are pretty decent – 1000 channels, up to 5 watts – I guess that depends on what band you’re transmitting on. We’d need to sit down with some test gear for that. It comes as no surprise that Beofeng specs are…estimates. Funny thing is the official Beofeng manual doesn’t seem to align with the marketing wording. Beofeng markets the -7B radio for VHF, 1.25m (220) and UHF but the book doesn’t mention 1.25 meters in transceive. But I can tell you from experience, that I can hit one of my local 220 repeaters reliably. So maybe Beofang did a cut-n-paste job on the manual.

Some other comparisons for fun – The receiver sensitivity on the UV-5R is stated in the manual as 0.2 microvolts at -12db SINAD. The UV-7B however states it as -120dBm at -12db SINAD. So stated this way, how do these compare?
Well, the little UV-5R at 0.2 µV is essentially -121 dBm, and the UV-7B is rated at -120 dBm. That’s a difference of only 1 dB — and for all practical purposes, these two radios have virtually identical receiver sensitivity. One dB is right at the threshold of human perception in audio, so neither radio has a meaningful sensitivity advantage over the other, at least in my humble opinion.
The UV-7B says it has a -16 dBm spurs below 1GHz, which I think reaches the 25 microwatt point. So if the radio is transmitting 5 watts (37 dBm), then -16 dBm spurious means it’s roughly 53 dB below the carrier.
That’s fine, but nothing to brag about, but a bit better than the little UV-5R, from what I can gather from both radio’s manuals.

FCC Part 97 requirement for amateur HTs under 5W is at least 40 dB below the fundamental. So technically at 53db below, the -7B complies. But given these are budget Baofengs, real-world measurements by the amateur radio community have often shown their spurious emissions claims to be, well let’s just say…optimistic. But in a day-to-day usage scenario, the UV-7B, which is just a tad more expensive than the dirt-cheap UV-5R has some wins. First, it feels good in your hand. It is sized just right and has a surprising higher quality feel that you’d expect. 

The -7B weighs about a half a pound, so no one can call it a lightweight. It will fit into bigger pockets even with the belt clip. Not quite as easily as the little -5R but a lot easier than its bigger siblings.The case is a pretty baby blue polycarbonate – the only color unfortunately. You really can’t compare the build quality of any Beofeng to say, an old metal-cased Yaesu FT-270 or even an AnyTone D878UV II Plus, but for the incredibly low price, it is a solid radio with a decent 1.77″ TFT screen. 

BTW, If you’ve ever seen the big Beofeng UV-32 or its DMR DM-32’s screen go dark in bright daylight, the -7B’s screen doesn’t wash out in the same way. 

Finally, to program the radio from your PC, you will need a type K USB interface cable – which is the old Kenwood style. These cables are all over Amazon, but just buy the one sold from Beofeng and you’ll be good to go without grief. Trust me on this.

It does have Bluetooth connectivity, but only for its Android app – which I tried on my Pixel 8. It failed to connect about half the time. Your results may be better depending on your phone brand. I haven’t tried it on an iPhone. Beofeng has its own programming application for PC that you can download from their website. I’ve heard lots of complaints about it being buggy. I’ve tried it and it isn’t that bad. But you can use Chirp instead, which is how I program all of my supported radios. The only thing is that, as of this writing there is no radio definition for the UV-7B specifically. So you use the definition for the UV-21 Pro GPS instead. There is also a utility to let you upload a simple 150x128px bitmap picture of your choosing. Cute.

If you’re looking at the venerable UV-5R as your first HT, you should have a look at the UV-7B as well and make some comparisons. For only a few bucks more, I think you get a lot more radio.

Dave K3DFD

Recently VGR brought out the VR-N7600, an evolution of the N7500 that adds built-in GPS, compass, APRS, a 6-pin mic connector instead of the 7500’s RJ-45, and a built in USB-B charging port for accessories. The 7600 is much less dependent on being paired to a phone\tablet than the 7500.
Both are headless 50W VHF\40W UHF with bluetooth capability, including BT KISS TNC. VR-N7500 is still available from vendors for the near future for about 60% the cost of the N7600. That gap closes depending on speaker mic package options on the older model with the entry N7500 starting at pocket change under $200 up to $260 with a BT Speaker Mic. The N7600 is listed at $340 with a BT Speaker mic including a full-color screen. I bought my N7500 last year, this is a review of my experience with it. I’m not sure i feel the need to add the 7600 to my collection.

The unit itself is average-sized unit at 5.5″x4.5″x2″ wrapped in a finned, satin black aluminum case with a cooling fan mounted at the back. The front of the radio has 3 bright lights (even in direct sun), microphone RJ-45 jack, and a very small, very stiff soft power button that doubles as the BT pairing button. The backside has your RF connector and a fused power lead terminating with a three-blade plug. That’s it. No audio jacks. No I\O ports. Just the basics. This radio is designed to be mounted out of sight, it can be turned on\off, BT pairing, channel selection, A\B selection, and VFO selection from the supplied wired speaker mic. The number of channel banks or zones is unlimited (so they say) and limited to 16 per bank with just the radio, 32 if paired with the phone. It has what is quickly becoming the standard of pre-programmed WX channels and WX Alerts. It pulls 8-10 amps on extended TX when powered by 13.4V DC supply in the shack or in the car.

The plus and minus of this radio is its dependency on mobile devices. Let’s start with the pluses because I’m in a happy mood today. There’s actually two primary applications available for these radios as well as the HT versions – VR-N76, Radiooddity GR5WB, or the BTECH UV Pro that are on similar firmware – from VGC (HT App) and BTECH (BTECH HT). The BTECH app lacks the Satellite functionality available in the VGC app. The UI is decent. Pair the unit and the programmed channels show up in a grid with multiple options at the bottom to toggle scanning, single watch, dual watch, VFO, and power levels. Right, no diving into 300000 menu levels just to switch from single to dual watch. Active channel selection is just a tap away.

Swipe left and – if you have configured APRS in the settings – up pops the live APRS map with current channel overlay. The radio does not have a GPS or compass module, it uses the one in the phone. APRS setup is straight forward and functions as expected, it even can be an iGate and\or digipeater. Tap a the menu and you can send APRS messages to contacts (and favorite contacts in the phone). You can digital mute the designated APRS channel (yes, you can tell it what channel to use and it does it automagically) so you don’t have to hear the screech, just a very faint click when it sends. And with the latest firmware update, Smart Beaconing and Mike-E is now a thing. Not as complete as using a dedicated APRS app but a far sight better than other OEM applications. Changing channel settings is just a matter of tap and hold until the dialog opens, then get to editing. Again, no multi-level menu nightmares. Firmware updates are also via BT and I’ve had zero issues across 7-8 updates.

Now the minus: it can only be programmed via Android or iOS apps or the open source Windows\Linux application HT Commander. This is done over BT and the pairing can be confusing for some. The mobile apps pair the radio via the application, not the operating system module. If you pair the radio to your phone and then attempt to bring it up in the app, 9 times out of 10 it won’t see it. If you ignore phone pairing and let the app initiate the connection, it works. The exception is HT Commander, you have to pair it to the PC, then connect in the app. There is an import function from CSV, but no export function to CSV unless you use the PC application HT Commander. This app also allows importing from CHIRP CSVs, a HUGE plus in my book. Thought, it doesn’t automatically import the channels, it opens them up in a grid identical the existing bank grid, then you drag and drop channels. Still easier than inputting one by one on your phone.
Then there’s third-part apps like APRSDriod, RadioMail, Winlink, and other digital mode apps that support BT KISS TNC. They do see it and it does work, including CAT control. Huge bonus and I guess this is a plus, not a negative.

Without a doubt, the biggest minus to this radio isn’t even the radio. It is any of the 4 speaker mic options made for it. The stock wired unit (HM-78) can control the basic functions but since it doesn’t have any visuals, you are stuck with a computerized female voice YELLING “CHANNEL 2” or “BLUETOOTH ON.” I’ll give it props for good sound quality on TX and loud but a bit tinny on RX. The coiled cord is average length but the RJ-45 connector has subpar strain relief and I don’t 100% trust it. Option #2 is a BT version (BHM-78) that is functional and physically similar to the wired item, just obviously without the cord. #3 is the same form factor but with a much-needed LCD display (BHM-88) so instead of being yelled at, you can see what you are selecting. The font is decent sized and the color choice easy to read in all but direct sunlight. Battery life is decent with about 30h standby before having to charge via USB-C. #4 – if you can find one as it appears they have been discontinued – is the one I have, the BHT-78 Bluetooth unit. This is a funky piece. Instead of looking like a hand mic, this is in a similar form factor to an HT with the speaker and mic below the screen and a short, stubby antenna (less than 2″). The antenna is there because this has the GPS module in it, negating the need to pair to a phone once initially set up. Screen is decent sized, the font not so much and the active RX channel lights up red. Impossible to read in anything other than a darkened room. At least you can still see it on the phone if you need to, they can work together. Volume is a standard rotary knob, though it is software-driven, not a rheostat so it isn’t quite as smooth or responsive as an electro-mechanical options. All 4 mics have easy to swap connectors on the back to give you a variety of standard clip\post options for securing the piece. And yes, you can run any of the BT mics in parallel with the wired mic, though the in this case only the UP\DOWN channel rocker switch and PPT are active on the wired mic.

So, did you notice what was not mentioned at all? Right. NONE of the mics have a keypad. All alpha-numeric – including DTMF – has to be done in the app (not applicable to the N76\BTECH UV Pro, which can function normally without the app – including direct-in-radio programming) and this is a bit of a bummer if you like physical keys and one-device operation.

Let’s be real, none of the above matters if the radio is the mobile equivalent to a UV5R. Happily, it isn’t. It is a damn good operating radio. Purity is beyond acceptable. TX output on 146.520 is 51.9W, 446.000 is 39.9W. When paired with a Tram 1191 through-glass antenna on my ’24 Outback (it has a stubby counterpoise to help offset the lack of a ground plane) I can consistently reach out to repeaters 40-60 miles away 5-9. At home with a half-wave vertical dipole or j-pole, that stretches to 50-65 miles. This radio has pleased me so much – partially due to the flawless BT KISS TNC – that I pulled my Yaesu FT-7900r out of my car. After doing that, I got several queries from contacts what I did to improve my TX. They struggled to believe the performance coming out of a non-Yaesu\ICOM\Motorola radio. I love being able in the amount of time it takes to switch apps to go from checking in on a repeater to firing off a Winlink message all while beaconing APRS and then back again.

Since they share the same app, if you have the VR-N76\BTECU UV Pro HT, you can swap between radios with a single tap in the phone app, though the channels programmed are discrete to the radio and I’ve yet to find a way – outside of using HT Commander for export and then shipping them to the phone as files via email or direct download- to easily standardize the channel banks.

SIDE NOTE: Out of the box it can receive FRS\GMRS frequencies, you have to tap the voltage entry in the phone app setup menu 10 times to unlock TX on them. Since this doesn’t lock out the ham bands, legality of this is questionable, but doable.

SIDE NOTE #2: Network capability. Wut? So if you pair your unit with an Android phone (not supported currently on iOS) or tablet connected to the internet, you can bind an analog frequency and\or channel to a “network channel.” On another Android device, also connected to the internet with the same login, you can then use your second device to remotely control (change freq\CTCSS tones, TX, and RX) the N7500 from anywhere with an internet connection. Say you don’t want to miss your local net but you are 9 states away on business and your net is on analog-only. No problem, set the net repeater as a network channel and Bob’s your uncle, you can join in! Apparently there is a way to share a network channel in such a way that it becomes basically a group chat via the phones and analog, though I haven’t tested that yet. Might be useful for small nets that are geographically distant and not everyone has access to – or want to use – digital voice.

I won’t argue the VGCs and their cousins from Radiooddity and BTECH are perfect. They aren’t. They have some quirks, usage flaws, and restrictions that you don’t get on a standard mobile from the Big Three. But, in return you get a BT KISS TNC built-in, clean signal, clear RX, endless channels, stealth mounting, remote operation, and features at a very competitive price. I’ve replaced my daily carry and my mobile unit (previously both Yeasus) with the UV Pro and VR-N7500 respectively with zero regrets. Great radios? For the price, yes, overall no but damn good ones. Fiona agrees :).

This not a paid review. I purchased this with my own funds, no compensation has been given for my thoughts. If you would lke to use your own money to buy one from Vero\VGC, AARN will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you

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Very cool concept, not so much in execution.

It seems like most of my reviews so far have been kind of negative. I feel bad about that. Not because I’m dumping on a product, but because I have so many devices that just aren’t all they proclaim to be. If you haven’t guessed, this is another one.

The Spec5 Spectre is a portable Meshtastic device sold by SpecFive LLC (why they interchange “Five” and “5” I do not know, but they do). Described as an Android Off-Grid Mesh Connectivity Phone, a unique combination of Android smartphone features and advanced LoRa mesh technology. This is accurate. It is a Haltek V3 LoRA device, with a battery, in a 3D case that also comes with an Android phone and a stubby little antenna that is typical for Mesh clients. It is shipped ready to go, power it on and get mesh’n, it even comes with a couple Meshtastic games and two USB-C data\charging cables that while short at about 10″, are beefy and appear to be well-made. Yes, it has two identical cables, you’ll see why shortly, and it’s not in case you lose one. It’s not cheap at $144 but on paper, if you are looking for a portable, convenient, and all-in-one mesh device that with a SIM card can also be a phone , this looks pretty damn good with Wifi and GPS.

Unlike a lot of pre-built mesh devices, this isn’t square and flat, it is rectangular, relatively narrow, and rather thick. You can see in the featured pic of this post it is quite a bit smaller than a typical HT – not that they should be the same size but it is a good reference for size than say “about 3/4 of a Snickers bar.” That also works, just sayin’. The front is the phone, the back shows the typical small display that you would find on many basic mesh devices. I like that they didn’t skip this or hide it since if you ever need to re-pair it to the phone (like I said, it comes ready to go so already paired), you’ll need that display for the pairing key. On the left side is a small slide switch to turn on the Haltek, which fires off quickly as expected with this board. The charging circuit is wired through the switch and has to be on to charge the battery for the mesh device, which is separate from the phone. Not ideal, I’m sure they had their reasons for doing it this way instead of letting you charge the battery without it being on. More than once I have had it charging, unplugged it, and since the phone was off I didn’t pay attention that the mesh was powered on. Next time I went to use it… battery dead. Fortunately it charges fast. Unfortunately it is a small battery and discharges fast. Expect 2-3 hours of life out of it powered on. In contrast, my Seeed T1000e that is smaller than this – though needs to be paired with a phone that isn’t included – will run easily 36-48 hours before needing a charge. Then again, it isn’t running a tiny display.

It is a Haltek, arguably the most-used Meshtastic and Meshcore board out there. Don’t bother asking “does it work on the mesh” because of course it does. There’s a reason beside price that the Haltek is so popular: it works and it is supported universally. Setup your configuration that fits your mesh needs, reboot, BOOM, beacons are going out, messages are coming in. No, it doesn’t have a GPS module or WiFi, but that’s what the phone is for, it has both. Though I put a high-gain (5db) antenna with a nifty folding joint built in, the stock stubby one wasn’t that bad. The 3d-printed case is thick and sturdy, never concerned that dropping it would cause catastrophic destruction.

So, at this point besides the battery life, it sound good, right? I mean it works and it uses a universally-supported board. What is the problem?
Glad you asked. There’s two problems, one more of an inconvenience than a real problem. The other? Oh boy…

To ease into the pain, let’s start with the inconvenience: charging. Remember the 2 cable things? That’s because the Haltek has a battery and the phone has a battery. The are isolated from each other which means you have to charge them separately. On the plus side, they both charge USB-C. In a perfect world, where phone batteries last longer than a few hours, this wouldn’t be an issue. You charge or power the mesh device while using it, then at the end of the day or in a couple of days, pop the cable over to the phone and charge that.
This is not a perfect world. The battery in the phone is also small. It lasts about the same as the mesh device. That almost seems convenient until you remember you need two free USB ports within 20″. If you are by a PC, great. If you are in your car, maybe not so great. Same with a small battery brick.

Time to address the pigmy elephant in the room. If it was just a small battery in the phone that was an issue, I could move past that pretty easy. Unfortunately, the draw to this device, the reason someone might be willing to pay $150 for one is the built-in phone. The phone is the draw and the death of the Spectre. Even if it was the battery and just one of the other things, it might almost be still worth the cost of entry. Alas, it isn’t just one other thing.

This thing is small, like really small.

Maybe that doesn’t sound bad, even a perk, right? WRONG. Not only is it so small that it is difficult to see the text even with the brightness cranked and bifocals, step back and think about what you do with a phone. One with a touchscreen. One that is for text operation. That you have to tap with your fingers. Look at the pic below. That’s a standard-sized Samsung smart phone – A02S – next to the Spectre. And just in case that wasn’t contrast enough, that’s a normal Ritz cracker and a fun-sized Hershey bar. Look how small it looks in my hand in the second pic. I’m 5’2″. That’s not a big hand. That’s not even a normal sized man hand. Now think about just how tiny the full-key keyboard is. Yeh. Typos are the rule, getting one word right is the exception. I tried using a stylus – both the blunt inductive type and a pointed powered one – and that helped a bit, but also highlighted another issue. The touch screen doesn’t respond at the edges. Before you think this is just maybe a lemon or a one-off, I got two of these things so that I could have one and my wife the other. They both have the same issue.

All of the above is compound by the reality that this phone is slow as death by old age. Slow as riding a bicycle up Mt Washington. Slow as a sloth crawling through- you get the point. It is horrifically slow. You don’t even know you made a typo for several seconds because takes forever for the damn thing to respond. You’re not even sure it hasn’t locked up it takes so long to respond.

SpecFive (or 5) states this is “designed for those who need reliable communication even in the most remote locations. This device is perfect for outdoor enthusiasts, emergency preparedness, and anyone who needs dependable connectivity away from traditional cellular networks.” Those are pretty lofty statements for a device that is 2g/3g and has the above issues. It is a novel idea that they look like they have expanded on with the Spectra Pro – a 3.88″ quad core LTE capable device with carbon fiber case. At $209;99, it also isn’t cheap but might end up being a better value. They also have the Ranger, no phone but a ful QWERTY keyboard for $179.99. Not interested in the Ranger but maybe if the price of groceries ever eases, I’ll pony up for the Spectre Pro and give it a spin. Or not.

40W from an HT? Where do I sign up?

The BTECH UHF and VHF amps – if you get the D model(s) they are true TDMA Tier2 DMR amplifies as well as analog. At the time of this post a unit is $99 direct from BTECH for the analog amps, $115 for either of the digital-capable ones. Like the UV Pro and UV-50 Pro, these are rebranded VGC amps sold in the US by BTECH. From experience with both my UV Pro and VR-N7500 mobile, I was cautiously optimistic about this unit.
There are 5 models:

– U25 Analog 70cm
– U25D Analog and digital 70cm (DMR, P25 Phase 1, C4FM, NXDN, IDAS, dPMR, MPT1327)
– V25 Analog 2m
– V25D Analog and digital 2m (DMR, P25 Phase 1, C4FM, NXDN, IDAS, dPMR, MPT1327)
– AMP-220 Analog 1.25m

There are a few important things go note before you take the plunge. Let’s get into it.

This an average-sized unit at 5.5″x4.5″x1.5″ with a 4W speaker mounted on the top and comes with the SMA cable to connect to the radio, a K1 cable for PTT (optional), an RJ-45 hand mic (optional), a 6′ fused unfinished power lead, and mounting bracket. Mounting is as easy as any mobile radio, and since it is functionally headless, the mounting location in a vehicle is a bit more flexible. Unfortunately, the supplied K1 and SMA cables 4′ so that is a limiting factor. Longer SMA cables are readily available (there’s nothing special about the OEM one other than it is pretty thin and flexible) but I have yet to find a replacement K1 cable – even an OEM one – so if that breaks or you need more runway, you are making one.

You probably made note of the two “optional” items above. That is because this unit has three different ways it can be configured for operation. The only constant is the SMA cable that connects to the back of the amp and to the SMA connector on the radio. Regardless of configuration, channel switching and volume are controlled by the HT. No special configuration (VOX, etc.) is required of the radio in any of the configurations.

1. Just the SMA connecting the radio to the amp. RX and TX are handled by the HT. Output only is handled by the amp. This is the simplest mode, but you are tethered to the amp with a relatively short cable, at least it is as flexible as cooked spaghetti. One way around this is to use a hand mic connected to the HT (wired or BT). Sound quality is 100% dependent on the HT\speaker mic.
2. SMA connecting the radio to the back of the amp, the K1 cable to the front of the amp. RX sound is via the amp speaker, PTT is via the HT. This is in my opinion, the least convenient due to being tethered by two cables and no speaker mic option.
3. Same as #2 but with the supplied RJ-45 hand mic (no speaker) that plugs directly into the front of the amp. This is how I run it most of the time as it is – for me – the most convenient\least bulky way that also allows seeing the HT screen no matter what.

The amp will – in theory – push output of an HT to anywhere between 20W and 40W, depending on the power output of the HT. It will amplify a max of 6W input, you can use a radio capable up to 10W without damage, though any input higher than 6W is throttled down to 6W. For example, a 6W HT attached set a low power putting out a theoretical 2W will put out 20W at the antenna. Set it at medium at 4W and that’s 30W output, 6W on high is 40W output.
In theory.
In practice, the results I got were not quite there on the low end and a bit more on the high end. I tested this amp with a variety of CCRs (TiDRADIO H3 Plus (5W), UV5x3 (5W), UV K6 Pro (10W), UV32 Pro (8W), DM-1701 (5W), UV5RH Pro (5W), UV-25 Pro (on medium power since this is a 11W HT), and with an adapter cable since it doesn’t use a standard K1 port, a UV Pro (5W).

I saw a low of 18.3W from the UV5x3 (the H3 Plus was barely better at 18.4W) on low power to a high of 46.7W from the K6 and UV-25 Pro. The DM32 was a little less at 45.9. Still noticeably better than the advertised high, and considering the quality of radio of the two low numbers, I won’t dock the amp on less than 20W since the radios are hot garbage (UV5x3) to flaming stinking hot garbage (H3 Plus). I tested on analog 146.520 and to a repeater on 146.985000 analog and DMR.

THING TO NOTE #1 – Only the two analog models are dual band. Damage to any of them will occur if TX is done with the unit powered on and not in the designed band. The analog models will TX\RX on the other band if the amp is powered OFF. Due to the circuit switching design of DMR Tier II and P25 Phase 2, the D models only operate on their designated band, regardless of power state.

Sound quality on RX through the amp speaker is as good as a 4″, 4W speaker is expected to give. Even at max radio volume, it didn’t break up or distort. TX reports were good to excellent. More than one occasion I got comments like “wow, that’s a great sounding mobile.” I didn’t correct them with what I was running, I’m not sure they would have believed me when giving me 5-9 reports on a repeater over 50 miles away. I got similar reports using both a Tram 11862S mag mount on the roof of a 2024 Subaru Outback or Tram 1191 thru-glass on the same car (look for a review of that antenna in the future). I was able to pull in a few more faint stations with the 11862S on the roof of a 1979 VW Bus due to the very large ground plane (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it).

THING TO NOTE #2 – BTECH advertises “harmonic filters for cleaner output” which, let’s be honest, with some of the CCRs, ANYTHING would help. This helps. Significantly. I was staggered. Several of the radios I tested were already pretty clean, significantly below -60db across all the harmonics without the amp. They saw marginal improvement. What blew me away was my two dirtiest radios – the UV5x3 and H3 Plus, both tickling -60db on the first harmonic on 146.520 – saw a massive improvement, not breaking over -80db. Since db is logarithmic, that’s a HUGE improvement.

THING TO NOTE #3 – While it is always best to run higher-powered DC devices direct to the battery, the amperage draw while transmitting at max wattage was bouncing around the 8A range, safely below the 10-15A limitation of most auto OEM 12v outlets. This wasn’t a permanent installation in my car so I put a ciggy plug on the lead and after a 30 minute net, the 12v outlet in the console of my Outback was barely warm to the touch. The case got warmer than the plug, yet that was still plenty comfortable to the touch. I plan to mount this in my VW Bus since the only ham radio in it currently is a circa 1980 Radio Shack 50W 70cm (which fits the vibe of the ancient rig) and hide it under the seat.

THING TO NOTE #4 – Since this works with any HT that has an SMA antenna port, you are not limited to one radio in your rig or shack. Want to do DMR? Pop on a DM-1701 or DM32 (or whatever you use for DMR) for a bit, then take that off and put on a N76\UV Pro and start doing digital modes while chewing on analog.

THING TO NOTE #5 – I strongly recommend replacing the OEM SMA cable with a beefier one if you plan to swap radios around (I got one that is SMA on the amp side, BNC on the radio side since I’ve converted all my HTs to BNC), I have low confidence on the longevity of the OEM cable with frequent moving it around. It does have strain reliefs but still, it’s not much thicker than angel hair pasta. Eventually I’ll figure out the pinout for the K1 cable so I can make a backup. Possibly one of those that are used for simplex repeater setups with a couple of Baofengs might work, dunno. More research needed.

TL:DR – For the price of a decent mobile (though not high end), this amp has some pretty strong pros on its side, specifically cleaning up SEs, versatility, low power consumption, and reasonable size. Unlike a decent priced mobile, you are locked into one band in the worst case, and two bands with one being on HT power in the best case. Depends on your needs. Since I rarely key on 440, this works for me. Your mileage may vary.

Shop for the BTECH amp on Baofeng Tech website by clicking on the image above. This is an affiliate link, AARN may receive a commission from any purchase made with BTECH using this link.

Everything you’ve come to expect from a CCR, unfortunately.

Andres – M0FXB – from YouTube did an unboxing of this radio from TiD when it was in beta. I enjoy watching Andres videos and I grabbed one up for under $40. This is how it went.

First, it took almost a month for a carrier pigeon to deliver it from China to New Hampshire. While I’m used to long shipping times from across the world, this was post-Covid and before the Tangerine Tyrant instituted his moronic, damaging tariffs. It did finally arrive in a plain cardboard box, no manual. Understood, it was a bata radio, aka pre-release. I had heard good things about TiD’s H3 (standard model) so I was looking forward to this radio, especially since it is quite a bit smaller than most (outside of the new Baofeng Mini). There’s three versions of this radio: GMRS, HAM, and Unlocked (both). I have the Unlocked though most of what I have to say should apply to all the versions since it is just a firmware switch.

Let’s break it down and see where this goes.

TX\RX: RX sensitivity is very good. The speaker decent for such a small radio and TX clarity has gotten good reports. Purity is no better than most pre-Covid CCRs across multiple firmware updates (more on the FW thing later). Yeh, kinda dirty, flirting close to -60db. I measured 5.5W on 2m, 4W on 70cm. It is advertised to do 1.25m as well – and it will receive it fine – but TX is less than 1W. It also can receive AM Airband, a nice touch. And yes, the unlocked version can be put into only GMRS mode to be legal for that service.

This is a small radio, about half the size of a UV5R and a little more comfortable to hold because of the round edges. Screen is bright and clear, even in direct sun and since a recent firmware update allows the option of a “classic” display mode, the characters are large and easy to see. One of the better screens in my collection.

Considering its size, battery life is on par with the standard-sized CCR and can be charged via USB-C.
Carefully. There’s a flaw in early battery charging circuit that if you charged the battery while it was attached to the radio, it cooked the radio. Fortunately the battery isn’t one that is screwed on so the workaround to prevent this is to charge the battery off the radio.
Pain in the ass. The first of a few PITAs with this gem.

It has Bluetooth. The advertising talks about connecting to a phone or computer and talking over “the network.” using the ODMaster app. If you think this means it can do DMR or that it has a BT TNC for digital work modes….
NOPE.
You can talk on “the network” with just your phone, no radio involved. Or use Whatsapp or any other messenger because that is what this is like. If you want to do RF to internet, Internet to RF, or remote control over the internet, get a better radio. Apparently the H8 can do it, the brilliant VGC N76 and clones can..
You can connect to phone or PC to use the BT for programming using the Odmaster phone app or website as well as for audio, certain BT hand mics and pretty much any BT speaker. You can use your phone as a PTT if you want, or pick up phone calls from your phone on the radio (you still need to use the PTT). You can also use USB-C for programming in the Windows app but not online firmware updates, those require a standard K1 programming cable. It works with CHIRP, which is nice. While the web app and phone app are not complete crap, they still are more fiddly to use than simple, intuitive CHIRP.

Firmware updates can be done using the Odmaster website (registration and login required) or a version-specific stand alone windows EXE. If using the Windows EXE, be prepared for it to be flagged by your antivirus as being infected.
Because it is.
I’m not implying any racism with this, given the fearmongering out there about Chinese software and security, I believe it does have the Trojan it is flagged for (one of several). This is a simple, one-file, no install EXE. It has one job: connect to a COM port, open a radio, upload the firmware, confirm, and disconnect. The firmware BIN file is shipped with the EXE. It is a local file. So, in theory AND in practice, the EXE has zero reasons to connect to the internet.
But it does.
And a good firewall will catch it as it does it on a random, non-standard port, if your AVS didn’t already flag it. Cleaning the file renders it non-functional but blocking its access to the internet has no effect. Therefore, the alleged virus was compiled with the code and is accessed by the code, but is not required by the code to do its job. What it is connecting for, and what it is sharing, I do not know. I considered packet sniffing it but didn’t want to take the risk of it on my network and honestly, I don’t care enough about the radio to be that interested. I did any FW updates (and there’s many of them, mainly because the last one broke something important) on an isolated system with no network access, it doesn’t even have a NIC.

Before I get to more FW discussion, 3 out of the 5 H3 Plus radios I’ve encountered, if something, anything is plugged into the K1 port, the up channel key becomes the 4 and the 4 the up channel key. Down channel and 7 are not affected. Today while testing it for this post, now it does it with nothing in the port. I’d consider maybe a hardware issue but this seems to randomly appear\disappear with firmware changes.

I’ve done 11 FW updates on my radio. Each one has fixed something minor plus a major thing that got broke by the previous update and broken something else. One FW update bricked everyone’s radio. They did turn a fix around in 24 hrs, it was convoluted and – unlike normal updates – could only be done with the USB cable. Support communication was fair in the beginning, now questions just go into the void. The FB group dedicated to this specific model makes Yelp one star reviews sound flattering.

I have had so many frustrations with this radio that it is not in my rotation of use. I’d rather grab my 10 year old UV5R and piss off the Sad Hams complaining about spectrum purity than depend on this radio. Even on GMRS, where most of the issues appear to not exists, I don’t trust it. I don’t even leave it monitoring GMRS for the wife when I’m out and about – she cares for radio as much as she cares about who qualified for the latest NASCAR race (zero damns given) – because it is that unreliable.

TL:DR – I had high hopes for this radio considering how many people like the standard H3. Unfortunately, they are related in name only. I had hopes for TiD to come in strong, but they are more like pre-Covid Baofeng. There are a few worse radios out there, though outside of the original UV5R, I’m struggling to think of one. Save your money and sanity. Get an H3\6\8\9 or one of the many other CCRs out there or if you need a decent GMRS HT, the UV5G Pro is a damn good unit. I’ll be reviewing that soon.

Better than the UV5R but falls short of being a good value

I’m not going to get into a lot of fluff about a sub-$30 radio. It was $60 when it came out, at that price on paper it was a good value. Now, at $22-29, it is still a good value, just not a great one. Let me explain…

The Baofeng 5RH Pro is advertised as an 8W HT, covering 2m\1.25m\70cm bands with NOAA weather alerts\channels, GPS, and built-in APRS functionality. For $60, not a bad deal. For $30 it is a great deal. Then you go to use it and things aren’t as cool as you thought.

TX\RX: It sends. It receives. The sound quality in both directions is pretty good at this price point. I checked it with my TinySA and it was clean, no harmonics breaking the threshold. Way to go Baofeng, nice work.

TX pt 2: It isn’t 8W, or at least mine is not. I’ve seen a handful of reviews on this radio. One got 7W on 2m and 4 on 70cm, they didn’t test 220. The other couple didn’t test the power.
I did.
4.9W on 146.520.
1.3W on 225.000
3.9W on 446.000
Not 8W. Not even 7W.
This is a 5W radio (my example at least).

GPS: It has one. You can turn it on and off. You can even get a lock… eventually. Outside in a clear sky it took 5 minutes to get a lock. Sitting the dash of my car with full view of the sky driving down the road, 13 minutes. Cloud cover? I’m still waiting. The 5RH (non-Pro) has a flashlight, the Pro does not, that’s where the GPS antenna is. Not sure really the value of the little lights on these radios anyway but if it matters to you, get the standard radio.

APRS: Technically it has it. You cannot set the frequency to beacon, it will do so on whatever the active channel is. You cannot set your symbol. You cannot set your message. You cannot set an interval, every 15 seconds if you want it or not. You cannot send messages. You cannot receive messages. Do not pass GO, do not collect $200.

Mine was advertised to have Bluetooth. It has the menu item for it.
It does not have BT.

Pre-set US Weather bands is nice, but most newer radios do that so this isn’t as much a feature as an expected function. And it does function.

The front end is average for this class of radio and doesn’t seem to get overwhelmed unless you are in the same room.

The screen fonts are nice sized, if a little 1999 in design. Scanning is quick and it shows you what it is scanning, unlike some newer radios. Downside is if you are in single-channel MR mode, it shows the frequency and not the channel name, no matter what you have the settings at.

It holds 640 channels. Not bad. Better than the 99 of the original UV5R, not as good as some of the radios that will hold 999 channels. Kill me if I need that many programmed. Not only because my brain would break having that many options to talk, this radio is not supported by CHIRP. Yeh, you have to use the ugly, clunky, looks-like-written-in-VB6-around-2001 interface. Even programming in 30 repeaters is not fun.

Battery life is average for this class of radio and it can be charged either with USB-C or the included cradle. I got about 8hrs standby out of mine with an occasional TX when several were doing POTA and SOTA in my area.

The stock antenna, while not crap at SWR of 1.3, is too short and too much of a compromise covering 3 bands to be useful for more than a mile or two. With an 19″ ABBREE tactical, I was able to hear repeaters over 20 miles away and even at 5W open one at 12 miles in hilly central NH. Not bad.

It does come with the lanyard that I always throw away, a belt clip that takes some creative gymnastics to screw down because of the angle + spring strength, the charger, and my package came with the programming cable. Oh, and of course the poorly translated, font-so-small-need-a-microscope-to-read manual. Fortunately, if you’ve owned a Baefeng or any of the clones, you really don’t need the manual. Well, except for the software, which even with the manual is still a stinking pile of crap.

In the end, is it worth $60? No. $30? Sure, but for that same money you could get a UV K5 Plus with the same advertised features that actually work, a better screen, CHIRP SUPPORT(!), and a few bucks left over to put towards a good antenna. For a couple $ more, you could get a UV-25 Pro GPS with 11W and a battery that lasts longer than the center of a Tootsie Pop (though that radio is HUGE). I’ll have reviews of both of those coming soon, along with the disappointing TiDRADIO H3 Plus.